September at Tau Pan marked the true shift into the Kalahari’s summer cycle. Days grew warm, the air clear and bright, and the landscape opened up as the grasses thinned. The pans took on their distinctive golden tones, while many acacia species and dune shrubs began to push out fresh leaves and sweet-scented blossoms. Despite the dry conditions typical of this time of year, the desert felt alive—newborn oryx, springbok, and steenbok appeared across the open ground, bringing a sense of movement and renewal to the wider pan system.
Lion activity remained steady throughout the month. The resident Tau Pride, comprising a lone dominant male and six lionesses, maintained control around the camp and the main waterhole. Although the pride had unfortunately lost their cubs earlier in the season, the dominant male was mating with three of the females, giving us hope for new cubs by December. Nearly every two days, we encountered lions somewhere within the pan system. Mid-month, an intruding male accompanied by two lionesses fed on a male kudu near the edge of the pan before moving westwards, reminding us how fluid lion territories can be in the Kalahari.
Leopard sightings were frequent. Three individuals—a territorial male and two females—were observed regularly along the firebreaks and dune edges near the camp. During the second week, guests were treated to an extraordinary sighting when the male spent nearly an hour stalking a springbok in the southern part of the pan. He eventually committed to the chase and brought it down in full view of the vehicle.
Quick shadows and painted dogs on the move
Two cheetahs were observed moving through the area. They remained shy, but one male was seen near Mawelewele Road after successfully killing a young oryx—only to be chased off by a male lion shortly afterwards.
Brown hyenas continued to feature prominently. Unlike many parts of Botswana where they remain elusive, the individuals around Tau Pan were relaxed and often encountered during morning drives, sometimes near the airstrip or moving between the pans. A caracal made a brief appearance along the graded road, seen stalking guinea fowl through the sparse grass.
A pack of seven African wild dogs moved through Makgowa Pan and left fresh tracks almost daily at Passage Waterhole. Towards the end of the month they passed close to camp while hunting. After a short, determined chase they successfully brought down a steenbok, much to the excitement of the guests following them.
The general game was typical of the Central Kalahari at this time of year: steady numbers of gemsbok, springbok, kudu, giraffe, steenbok, andduiker spread across the pans and dune valleys. With the birthing season underway for springbok and oryx, young antelope were scattered across the open ground, their movements adding life to the harsh desert flats.
Blossoms and sandy dunes
The dunes were beautiful in their own way — dusty beige slopes broken by acacia species bursting into flowers. The scent of new blossoms carried across the road in some areas, lending a surprising sweetness to the dry air. Reptiles took advantage of the heat; sightings of puff adders, mambas, pythons and various gecko species, including dwarf, barking and thick-toed geckos, increased as temperatures rose.
Smaller mammals were active as usual. Honey badgers, ground squirrels, savanna hares, porcupines, caracals, yellow mongoose, and slender mongoose were all recorded during drives, especially early and late in the day when the heat was more manageable.
Birdlife around the water holes was vibrant. Large flocks of red-billed quelea descended in waves to drink, followed by groups of sandgrouse flying swiftly. Kori bustards, secretary birds, northern black korhaans, red-crested korhaans and ostriches all appeared frequently on the pans. The desert might seem sparse at first glance, but with water available, the birdlife was consistently rewarding.
Walking with the san and a sky full of stars
Walking activities with the San Bushmen remained a highlight for guests. These outings offered insight into traditional knowledge, medicinal plants, fire-making techniques, and the cultural stories connected to the landscape. As always, the Bushmen walks provided a meaningful contrast to vehicle-based game viewing.
Night skies were extraordinary. Tau Pan is renowned for its clarity, and September brought numerous evenings under the Milky Way without any light pollution. The Southern Crosswas clearly visible during dinner, and in the early morning hours Orion, SiriusandVenus rose over the eastern dune line, marking the transition from winter to summer constellations.
