Dusk and dawn in Africa are intoxicating times of day, with light that changes from soft and delicate to vibrant shades of red, yellow and pink. It was even more magical one morning at Nxai, when a dense mist covered short grass plains. Through the mist, two zebra foals were gambolling about, seemingly for the sheer joy of it – one tiring, and then the other encouraging more play. Not far from them, a female cheetah appeared out of the mists, focused more on the waterhole in front of camp than the gallivanting zebras. She slunk down to the pan to have a drink, and then moved off into the bushes as the mist lifted, and the heat of the day began.
The first of November was a busy day in Nxai, not just the cheetah above, but a large number of ostriches were near the camp waterhole, as well as the normal elephants. Further afield in the Nxai Pan itself, bat eared foxes, jackals, and hundreds of springboks moved around the plain. A herd of over forty wildebeest, and a similar number of elephants kept a watchful eye on the six lions that were resting not far from the waterhole.
A few days later, dark clouds promising of an afternoon thunderstorm moved in, but rain failed to appear. Instead, two big male lions that seemed new to the Nxai Pan area, moved towards the waterhole and then began roaring. In the far distance a faint rumble was heard – difficult to tell whether it was answering lions or distant thunder!
Without rainfall, animals have to toss up between a desperate thirst, and the risk of attack when approaching the waterholes. Thirst normally wins out, and so it was the case when a hundred impalas and springboks were queuing at the waterhole on the 10th. They all seemed oblivious to the two lions that were waiting on the western side. Or perhaps, realizing the lions were too busy mating, they would not be interested in taking a break for a light meal!
However, mating lions is one thing, but four lionesses are a completely different story. Resting in the shade after a drink, the lionesses watched the antelope approach the waterhole to have a drink as well. Soon, the lionesses switched to alert, and began stalking the antelope. A slight change in breeze, and the prey realized what was happening, and bounded safely away, having to wait for another time when there were not such focused predators around!
Wild dogs made an appearance again this month, and this time, they brought four puppies with them… They went through the area in front of the camp, to try and drink, but the elephants had made the edge of the water too deep for them to get to safely, so they waited in the shade patiently. After a while, they moved off, and were seen in the area around the main gate camp site a few days later.
