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Nxai Pan Camp, July 2025

The month began with excitement when one of the subadult lionesses wandered into camp at night. By morning she was still there, and during a bushman walk guests encountered her moving through camp. 

Guides quickly returned to the vehicles, only to find two more lionesses settled at the waterhole in front of camp. Over the following days, the resident pride remained highly visible, particularly around the waterhole. Three lionesses with three cubs of varying ages—two around five months old and one nearly a year—were frequently seen in the company of one of the two resident males. Later in the month, a male lion was spotted crossing Middle Road after sundowners, moving purposefully as though following the scent of females.

Leopard activity was less visible but still indicated by fresh tracks along the road in front of camp and near the HATAB 2 campsite. Black-backed jackals were often heard giving alarm calls from that area, suggesting a leopard presence, though sightings were elusive.

A pack of four African wild dogs provided a highlight mid-month when they were located near the Wildlife waterhole, travelling south at pace. Their movement suggested they were on a determined hunt. Hyenas were mostly heard rather than seen.

Mud Baths and Large herds

Elephant herds visited the waterholes daily, both breeding herds and bachelor groups. Bulls spent long afternoons enjoying mud baths and dust bathing to keep cool in the rising temperatures. Herds of zebra and wildebeest dotted the pan and larger breeding herds foraging near the water sources. Giraffe sightings included small towers and solitary males browsing near camp. A particularly impressive spectacle was a large breeding herd of buffalo seen repeatedly near the Wildlife waterhole, an uncommon sight in this dry season. Antelope species such as springbok, impala, and kudu were consistently present, grazing in the pan and lingering at the waterholes.

Night drives around camp revealed scrub hares feeding on patches of nutritious grasses. Black-backed jackals were a constant presence across the pan, and bat-eared foxes were also seen regularly, their distinctive ears picking up insect movement across the sandy flats.

Life in the dry season

Birdlife added another layer of interest, with white-backed vultures and white-browed sparrow-weavers nesting in the area. Waterholes hosted a variety of species including pied avocet, black-winged stilt, Abdim’s stork, grey heron, little grebe, Hottentot teal, red-billed teal, Egyptian goose, and southern pochard. Long-tailed paradise whydahs also appeared, their extravagant tails visible against the winter landscape.

The dry season still offered opportunities to observe smaller creatures. Dung beetles and giant jewel beetles were active around the pan, while dragonflies hovered above waterholes feeding on midges. Ground agamas were often seen basking, and a wide range of butterflies, from yellow pansy and African monarch to scarlet tip and brown-veined white, added flashes of colour to the bush.

The landscape itself bore all the hallmarks of the dry season. Most trees had shed their leaves, and the grasses had withered, leaving only umbrella thorn acacias still green thanks to their deep tap roots. The Baines’ baobabs stood stark against the salt pans, which had dried completely, creating mirage effects in the distance. With clear skies and minimal cloud cover, stargazing was superb. Guests enjoyed spectacular views of constellations such as Gemini, Southern Cross, Orion, and Taurus, alongside bright planets including Jupiter, Mars, Venus, and Saturn.