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Nxai Pan Camp, July 2024

We noticed an increase in the number of buffalo, wildebeest, and zebra, indicating that there was still plenty of food to sustain these herds.

The pan, though dry, continued to support a rich diversity of life, drawing animals from far and wide to its nourishing grounds.

The resident lion pride graced the wildlife waterhole and fixated on a herd of springboks. One of the experienced lionesses boldly attempted a hunt, but the nimble springboks managed to escape. Meanwhile, the younger, less experienced subadult lions lounged nearby, keen observers of the hunt, absorbing crucial lessons for their future attempts.

Later in the month, we spotted five lionesses at the Eastern waterhole. Their full bellies hinted at a recent successful hunt, roars echoing across the plains at dawn, asserting their dominance. After a hearty feast, these lions often retreated to the middle of the pan to rest, a behaviour we’ve come to recognize as a signature of their routine.

Nature walks with the pros

The guided bush walks near the camp were not just strolls but enlightening journeys. Guests had the unique opportunity to learn from a seasoned San bushman, who shared his extensive survival knowledge in this semi-arid desert. He demonstrated how to find water, food, and even where to ‘buy’ matches from the bush to start a fire — knowledge passed down through generations. These walks were a deep dive into the ancient wisdom and cultural practices that have sustained people in this challenging desert environment for centuries.

Bushman walk at Nxai pan

Slender and yellow mongooses scurried about, hunting insects and small rodents. Their industrious foraging was a delightful sight amid the larger drama of Nxai Pan’s wildlife. Guests were treated to an exceptional sighting of a martial eagle feeding on a northern black korhaan and a pale chanting goshawk taking down a Burchell’s sandgrouse.

We spotted a few hardy insect species, including ground beetles and African monarch butterflies. The cold-blooded reptiles, such as snakes, were less active (conserving energy until the warmer, wetter months return); however, we did log the sightings of an olive grass snake, striped skink, and rock monitor lizards.

The journeys to Baines’ Baobabs revealed a savanna dotted with tall grasses, leading to the unforgettable salt pans where ancient trees stand as sentinels of time. These baobabs, some of which are over a thousand years old, are a testament to the resilience of life in this harsh environment and a unique feature of the Nxai Pan landscape.

Fresh leopard tracks were frequently found along the roads, a clear sign that these stealthy predators patrolled the area after dark.

The Nxai Pan night sky: a stargazer’s dream

As the sun set, the night sky came alive with a dazzling display of constellations. The Southern Cross, the False Cross, Scorpio, Leo, Canis Major, Corvus the Crow, and the Milky Way shimmered brilliantly in the clear, cold air. The Sagittarius constellation was also prominently visible.

(Please note: For the safety of the animals, we do not disclose the precise location of either rhino or pangolin sightings. Accompanying pictures are from our Kwando Photo Library which consists of all your great photo submissions over the years, it may not be the most up to date, but we felt it was worthy of a feature alongside this month’s Sightings Report!)